When it
comes to sushi in Tokyo, there’s a wide range of dining options. There are fast
food joints and conveyor-belt sushi stores on one of the spectrum and Michelin
star restaurants like Jiro in Ginza on the other end. And while my family in
Tokyo is spoiled for choice, Sushi Zanmai Bekkan is where they go – right around
the corner from the old Tsukiji fish market, tucked down a side street. And in
particular they seek out the company of Sushi chef Eiji Shibata who not only
serves great sushi but entertains guests with witty conversation and his vast
knowledge of the sushi trade.
Since Eiji Shibata has worked in Dusseldorf at the famous
Kikaku (see my other blog entry, link below), he speaks some German and English which is a
godsend for foreign customers. During the 1990s when he worked in Dusseldorf, under the tutelage of master sushi chef Ito, he's served sushi to Emperor Akihito. In my opinion that is a great sign of quality that outshines a Michelin star.
There’s a
fair amount of cheerful shouting going on as staff greet customers entering and
thank departing customers. And do not be alarmed when this shouting goes up a
notch. Once in a while, one of the sushi chefs will take a net and extract a
fish from the large aquarium at the back. The fish – still flapping – will be held
up high and displayed while a chef announces which type of fish it is. In
response, eager customers start yelling back orders as the poor fellow meets its
untimely end. That unfortunately is how fresh sushi is made.
The best seats are at the counter where you can see all the action. You can try asking for a seat by Eiji's section if he is on duty.
Note: Sushi Zanmai
has numerous locations in that neighborhood. All are equally good and one is
even open 24 hours. The Bekkan location just happens to be our family favorite.
Unlike some sushi joints which quote prices that fluctuate with the going market price, Sushi Zanmai is clear about pricing. The price on the menu is what you pay, no surprises.
And they have attractive sets for around 30 euros.
Unlike some sushi joints which quote prices that fluctuate with the going market price, Sushi Zanmai is clear about pricing. The price on the menu is what you pay, no surprises.
And they have attractive sets for around 30 euros.
2018 Update: Tsukiji outer market with the fish shops is still operational. However, the inner market where the auctions are held has been relocated to Toyosu.
2023 Update: Please check opening times prior to planning a visit. You might even try asking hotel staff or a friend to call and see if you can reserve a counter seat in Eiji's section.
