General note on the Kansai area.
Despite being less popular than Kyoto, it is actually Nara that is the location of 80% of Japan's national treasures according to one local guide. In fact, Horyuji is one of the oldest surviving wooden structure in the world. Explore the quiet grounds of Horyuji temple for a true feeling of ancient Japan. Also in Kyoto, often you have to pay an entry fee just to enter the temple grounds. In Nara, they only charge you when you want to see the inside of temple buildings.
Cafe etranger narad - Affordable good Italian food
On an evening when we could not find a non-touristic Japanese restaurant, we decided we'll settle for the Italian cafe in this building which doubles as a tourist information bureau. Although Google Maps was showing a 3.6 rating for this establishment, we were very surprised with the quality of the food and were glad we didn't end up in a comme ci comme ca tourist trap serving low quality Japanese food at expensive prices to foreigners.
Nara Prefectural Office cafeteria & rooftop garden - affordable & spectacular
This government office may be a bit daunting to visit when you don't speak Japanese. However, be brave and entre the building which is right next to the deer park. The cafeteria on the top floor and the rooftop are open to the public. You might need to ask some help navigating the pre-order machine where you select the food and pre-pay to obtain the ticket. Next, hand in the ticket to the ladies working in the kitchen. I recommend the dark curry with beef and the whatever day special they may have. All if this is ridiculously affordable and the tea is free. You just have to find the stack of cups and the machine to serve yourselves. I love this place for its food and the spectacular views from the cafeteria window seats and the rooftop garden. They are closed on Sunday, Saturday and on national holidays.
Daifuku Benzaiten - Daifuku mochi with the entire fruit inside!
Located on a corner on the Sanjo-dori street, look out for this small but incredible daifuku mochi stand. It is a bit pricey, but each of their mochi's encase entire fresh fruits. Yes, an entire mandarin, a complete fig, the whole kiwi, a large strawberry and so on. It is juicy and chewy and crazy and messy. If you can, eat them right away because the mochi tends to get softer when the daifuku approaches room temperature.
Kanoko - Wagyu shabu shabu worthy of a Michelin star
Unfortunately, this tip may be relevant only if you speak fluent Japanese. I found this place by chance and was extremely lucky that the chef and owner of Kanoko was in the mood to take on a reservation request from a first-time customer. Normally, he and his wife turn away foreigners and walk ins...not out of racial discrimination...but because they cannot provide detailed food instructions to a foreigner. And even for Japanese customers, walk-ins are usually turned away. A regular client who was there that night told us that new customers are normally introduced via other regulars. In fact, judging from the huge array of autographs decorating the walls, it seems like we've stumbled on quite a famous restaurant. And my goodness, this was the best wagyu shabu shabu experience of my life. I would love to go back if I had the chance. Since they serve only the best quality wagyu, we ended up paying 10,000 yen per person for a shabu shabu dinner with a double serving of beef.
Nakatanidou - Fresh yomogi mochi daifuku
If you walk up Sanjo-dori from the JR Nara station towards Todaiji temple, at one point up the hill, you'll hit a crowd blocking the street. It is chaotic with tourists milling around the window where they can see the men pounding the rice and yomogi (mugwort) into green mochi. I managed to bypass the crowd by indicating to an employee tasked with crowd control that I just wanted to buy a portion to go. Maybe that works only when you look Japanese and speak the language...I'm not sure. They probably thought I was a local customer and let me skip the line.
Don't let the green color of the mochi bother you. It is worth the wait and chaos because the mochi is so fresh and still warm! (Note, we forgot to take photos, so I've borrowed some images from their site to provide an impression.)
Nara Hotel - Dinner and tea in imperial splendor - Blog article
This is the most famous establishment in Nara with the original building dating back to the Meiji period. It was built originally to house imperial guests and foreign dignitaries and has always been the poshest hotel in Nara. Famous past guests include Einstein, Prince Edward, Emperor Puyi, Charlie Chaplin, President Nixon, Queen Beatrix and so on.
For myself, this place holds nostalgic memories since I've stayed here with my father who was a frequent guest since his student days. The rooms and the dinners are fabulous and have the ambiance and decorum of an bygone era. However, they do have quite price tag.
In a more recent visit, I didn't sleep over. Instead we opted to have tea and a Mont Blanc cake instead with my husband hesitating over 2500 yen per cake price. In their defense, the cake was immaculate.
Check their website if you would like to dine or have tea there. See their restaurant reservation pages for an impression of the prices. A full high tea may cost ca 9000 yen, lunch from 7000 yen and dinners start from 17,000 yen per person. In terms of quality you won't be disappointed. However, an alternative is to just go in to admire the building and grounds. They are happy to allow you to explore the gift shop, serene gardens and the main stairwell area for free. See Nara Hotel History and visit their site for more information or read my blog article which I wrote after I stayed there.
Nene Cafe - Exquisite cake in a breathtaking architectural space
If you are visiting Horyuji temple, do visit this Nene (pronounce ne-ne) for a coffee break. Finding it might be a bit hard since you might easily miss this entrance. They don't advertise their existence as loudly as their neighbors.
We were tired after exploring Horyuji and the surroundings and were in desperate need of a coffee break. Wow did we find a great place. Once inside, the architecture is the most beautiful combination of modern and old Japanese design. And the cakes are all homemade and delicious and served with exquisite care. An added bonus was the solitude. It was the end of the day. Hence we were the only ones enjoying the peace and quiet.
Yamato Modern - Delicious lunch deals
Yamato Modern has two locations on Sanjo dori street leading up from JR Nara station to Todaiji Temple. We went to the Yamato Modern JR Nara Station Store.
It was soooo good that we ended up having our lunch there twice. You get a tray full of vegetables and very tasty dishes in their daily lunch service. It is great value for money and definitely NOT a tourist trap. We haven't been there in the evening. However, I imagine this is also great for dinner.
Other food tips for all over Japan:
See tips in the Tokyo page on Konbini and the Ebi (shrimp) burgers of McDonalds and Mos Burger.
Horyuji Temple and other temples in the surrounding area
The first temple building of Horyuji is believed to be completed in 607. The temple was commissioned by Prince Shotoku and his palace also used to occupy the eastern part of the temple complex. Currently the To-in (East buildng) is located there where the palace used to be. As noted above, older than Kyoto!
When you visit this area, make sure you look up at the eaves and roofs of the temple walls and structures. The decorative elements and details are fantastic.
You'll have to take a local bus to reach this area...it's not within walking distance of Nara center. Make sure you go after a good breakfast or lunch. Once in this area, restaurants and shops are few and far between with the exceptio of the main road that leads straight to Horyuji's South gate. See Nene's cafe above which is close to the South gate.
Todaiji - Japan's largest Buddha statue and Deer Park
The largest Buddha statue in Japan is really stupendous in its size. This and the deer park are the most crowded locations in Nara, teeming with school trip groups and tourists. So the few times, I've been there, I did a quick in and out of the temple. I prefer to walk up the hill to the quieter Nigatsu-do temple (see below) or find a quiet spot in the park to feed the deer.
There is a technique to feeding the deer which are generally politer than their brethren in Miyajima. (See Hiroshima page) First have an non-transparent paper or plastic bag handy. Buy the deer crackers at the designated vendors who can be spotted around the park. Hide the crackers immediately in the bag. Otherwise you will be mobbed, head butted and sometimes bitten by greedy deer if they see you holding a large bundle of deer crackers. Approach a deer that you would like to feed and hold out a single cracker and bow to it. The deer will respond by bowing its head and sometime even bending a front leg to indicate it wishes to be fed. Only then do you feed the deer and move on to the next one. See footage of the deer and myself bowing to each other.
Eat:
Cafe etranger narad - Affordable good Italian food
On an evening when we could not find a non-touristic Japanese restaurant, we decided we'll settle for the Italian cafe in this building which doubles as a tourist information bureau. Although Google Maps was showing a 3.6 rating for this establishment, we were very surprised with the quality of the food and were glad we didn't end up in a comme ci comme ca tourist trap serving low quality Japanese food at expensive prices to foreigners.
Nara Prefectural Office cafeteria & rooftop garden - affordable & spectacular
This government office may be a bit daunting to visit when you don't speak Japanese. However, be brave and entre the building which is right next to the deer park. The cafeteria on the top floor and the rooftop are open to the public. You might need to ask some help navigating the pre-order machine where you select the food and pre-pay to obtain the ticket. Next, hand in the ticket to the ladies working in the kitchen. I recommend the dark curry with beef and the whatever day special they may have. All if this is ridiculously affordable and the tea is free. You just have to find the stack of cups and the machine to serve yourselves. I love this place for its food and the spectacular views from the cafeteria window seats and the rooftop garden. They are closed on Sunday, Saturday and on national holidays.
Daifuku Benzaiten - Daifuku mochi with the entire fruit inside!
Located on a corner on the Sanjo-dori street, look out for this small but incredible daifuku mochi stand. It is a bit pricey, but each of their mochi's encase entire fresh fruits. Yes, an entire mandarin, a complete fig, the whole kiwi, a large strawberry and so on. It is juicy and chewy and crazy and messy. If you can, eat them right away because the mochi tends to get softer when the daifuku approaches room temperature.
Kanoko - Wagyu shabu shabu worthy of a Michelin star
Unfortunately, this tip may be relevant only if you speak fluent Japanese. I found this place by chance and was extremely lucky that the chef and owner of Kanoko was in the mood to take on a reservation request from a first-time customer. Normally, he and his wife turn away foreigners and walk ins...not out of racial discrimination...but because they cannot provide detailed food instructions to a foreigner. And even for Japanese customers, walk-ins are usually turned away. A regular client who was there that night told us that new customers are normally introduced via other regulars. In fact, judging from the huge array of autographs decorating the walls, it seems like we've stumbled on quite a famous restaurant. And my goodness, this was the best wagyu shabu shabu experience of my life. I would love to go back if I had the chance. Since they serve only the best quality wagyu, we ended up paying 10,000 yen per person for a shabu shabu dinner with a double serving of beef.
Nakatanidou - Fresh yomogi mochi daifuku
If you walk up Sanjo-dori from the JR Nara station towards Todaiji temple, at one point up the hill, you'll hit a crowd blocking the street. It is chaotic with tourists milling around the window where they can see the men pounding the rice and yomogi (mugwort) into green mochi. I managed to bypass the crowd by indicating to an employee tasked with crowd control that I just wanted to buy a portion to go. Maybe that works only when you look Japanese and speak the language...I'm not sure. They probably thought I was a local customer and let me skip the line.
Don't let the green color of the mochi bother you. It is worth the wait and chaos because the mochi is so fresh and still warm! (Note, we forgot to take photos, so I've borrowed some images from their site to provide an impression.)
Nara Hotel - Dinner and tea in imperial splendor - Blog article
This is the most famous establishment in Nara with the original building dating back to the Meiji period. It was built originally to house imperial guests and foreign dignitaries and has always been the poshest hotel in Nara. Famous past guests include Einstein, Prince Edward, Emperor Puyi, Charlie Chaplin, President Nixon, Queen Beatrix and so on.
For myself, this place holds nostalgic memories since I've stayed here with my father who was a frequent guest since his student days. The rooms and the dinners are fabulous and have the ambiance and decorum of an bygone era. However, they do have quite price tag.
In a more recent visit, I didn't sleep over. Instead we opted to have tea and a Mont Blanc cake instead with my husband hesitating over 2500 yen per cake price. In their defense, the cake was immaculate.
Check their website if you would like to dine or have tea there. See their restaurant reservation pages for an impression of the prices. A full high tea may cost ca 9000 yen, lunch from 7000 yen and dinners start from 17,000 yen per person. In terms of quality you won't be disappointed. However, an alternative is to just go in to admire the building and grounds. They are happy to allow you to explore the gift shop, serene gardens and the main stairwell area for free. See Nara Hotel History and visit their site for more information or read my blog article which I wrote after I stayed there.
Nene Cafe - Exquisite cake in a breathtaking architectural space
If you are visiting Horyuji temple, do visit this Nene (pronounce ne-ne) for a coffee break. Finding it might be a bit hard since you might easily miss this entrance. They don't advertise their existence as loudly as their neighbors.
We were tired after exploring Horyuji and the surroundings and were in desperate need of a coffee break. Wow did we find a great place. Once inside, the architecture is the most beautiful combination of modern and old Japanese design. And the cakes are all homemade and delicious and served with exquisite care. An added bonus was the solitude. It was the end of the day. Hence we were the only ones enjoying the peace and quiet.
Yamato Modern - Delicious lunch deals
Yamato Modern has two locations on Sanjo dori street leading up from JR Nara station to Todaiji Temple. We went to the Yamato Modern JR Nara Station Store.
It was soooo good that we ended up having our lunch there twice. You get a tray full of vegetables and very tasty dishes in their daily lunch service. It is great value for money and definitely NOT a tourist trap. We haven't been there in the evening. However, I imagine this is also great for dinner.
Other food tips for all over Japan:
See tips in the Tokyo page on Konbini and the Ebi (shrimp) burgers of McDonalds and Mos Burger.
Visit:
Horyuji Temple and other temples in the surrounding area
The first temple building of Horyuji is believed to be completed in 607. The temple was commissioned by Prince Shotoku and his palace also used to occupy the eastern part of the temple complex. Currently the To-in (East buildng) is located there where the palace used to be. As noted above, older than Kyoto!
When you visit this area, make sure you look up at the eaves and roofs of the temple walls and structures. The decorative elements and details are fantastic.
You'll have to take a local bus to reach this area...it's not within walking distance of Nara center. Make sure you go after a good breakfast or lunch. Once in this area, restaurants and shops are few and far between with the exceptio of the main road that leads straight to Horyuji's South gate. See Nene's cafe above which is close to the South gate.
Todaiji - Japan's largest Buddha statue and Deer Park
The largest Buddha statue in Japan is really stupendous in its size. This and the deer park are the most crowded locations in Nara, teeming with school trip groups and tourists. So the few times, I've been there, I did a quick in and out of the temple. I prefer to walk up the hill to the quieter Nigatsu-do temple (see below) or find a quiet spot in the park to feed the deer.
There is a technique to feeding the deer which are generally politer than their brethren in Miyajima. (See Hiroshima page) First have an non-transparent paper or plastic bag handy. Buy the deer crackers at the designated vendors who can be spotted around the park. Hide the crackers immediately in the bag. Otherwise you will be mobbed, head butted and sometimes bitten by greedy deer if they see you holding a large bundle of deer crackers. Approach a deer that you would like to feed and hold out a single cracker and bow to it. The deer will respond by bowing its head and sometime even bending a front leg to indicate it wishes to be fed. Only then do you feed the deer and move on to the next one. See footage of the deer and myself bowing to each other.
Nigatsu-do - Location of the Omizutori fire festival
Climbing up to this temple and higher up into the hill behind it is highly recommended. Not only do you have a great view over Todaiji but the temple itself has a fascinating collection of ornate lanterns hanging above the balcony. Next to Horyuji, I count this as one of my favorite temples.
If you are lucky, your visit may coincide with the Omizutori festival at the beginning of March in which monks brandish massive flaming torches that rain fire sparks down on the hill. It's a bit risky and weird to do this in an ancient wooden structure that is designated as national treasure. I wonder how they work out the fire insurance for this event.
After exploring the temple, climb further up into the forest above the temple. There's a section of forsest full of votive statues festooned with offerings left by the devout.
Climbing up to this temple and higher up into the hill behind it is highly recommended. Not only do you have a great view over Todaiji but the temple itself has a fascinating collection of ornate lanterns hanging above the balcony. Next to Horyuji, I count this as one of my favorite temples.
If you are lucky, your visit may coincide with the Omizutori festival at the beginning of March in which monks brandish massive flaming torches that rain fire sparks down on the hill. It's a bit risky and weird to do this in an ancient wooden structure that is designated as national treasure. I wonder how they work out the fire insurance for this event.
After exploring the temple, climb further up into the forest above the temple. There's a section of forsest full of votive statues festooned with offerings left by the devout.
Buy:
Not the usual souvenir store full of kitsch manufactured in China. This store features local produce as well as handcrafted items. I bought a simple hand-woven orange and brown reversible linnen scarf here. The fuunny thing is...it doesn't really look like a souvenir or boutique store at all. It's easy to pass by it and not notice it due it's fluorescent lighted and sterile supermarket vibe. Ki-te Mi-te translates as 'Come in and see'. Do go inside and have a look.
If you like white T-shirts, this is a great souvenir store. They specialize in white T-shirts with what they call a one-point design. Each T-shirt features one small drawing in the front and back.with a subtle sense of humor. For example, the 'deer walk' shirt in the front shows a pair of deer waiting at the traffic lights and in the back shows the deer walking on the crossing.
Tabi socks are great if you want to wear them with flip flops and Tabiji sells these split toe socks. However, they also sell a modern version of the jika-tabi. Jika-tabi are tabi socks with a sole so you can use it outside or as slippers. Some look like they will function like thin soled barefoot shoes. They are also located conveniently directly above the One Point store. See the photo of the store front below featuring One Point on the ground floor and Tabiji on the first floor.
Stores with branches in all major cities:
If you want to shop for something other than tacky refrigerator magnets, try out some of these stores.
Stores like Muji, Tokyu Hands, Uniqlo and Zoff have branches in all major Japanese cities so you can plan in a shopping moment wherever you are. Please refer to the information on the Tokyo page for tips on what to buy at these stores.
Sleep & Soak:
Situated right next to JR Nara and with a hot spring. See screenshot of the bath from their web site. The only downside was the long lines for breakfast...which we skipped because you can easily get a bite on the go from the nearest supermarket at the station. Having said that, their breakfast must be fabulous.
We paid 731 euros for a confort twin room for six nights, booked via booking.com
PS. Unless I've noted otherwise, all hotels I recommend also have coffee/tea making facilities in the room, a refrigerator, shower soap, shampoo, conditioner amenities and laundromats which allowed us to pack light. No need to pack detergent, since a wash to dry cycle includes detergent. The prices are what we paid at the time of travel before 2025 and will fluctuate depending on your travel dates.
PPS. See also Fun Tip at the bottom of the Tokyo page on a funny alternative to the conventional hotel.
We paid 731 euros for a confort twin room for six nights, booked via booking.com
PS. Unless I've noted otherwise, all hotels I recommend also have coffee/tea making facilities in the room, a refrigerator, shower soap, shampoo, conditioner amenities and laundromats which allowed us to pack light. No need to pack detergent, since a wash to dry cycle includes detergent. The prices are what we paid at the time of travel before 2025 and will fluctuate depending on your travel dates.
PPS. See also Fun Tip at the bottom of the Tokyo page on a funny alternative to the conventional hotel.
