Eat:
Hiroshima - Di Grotto Tamazawa - Hidden Italian jewel - Blog article
Excellent Italian food, in my opinion, worthy of a Michelin star. There is a Dutch saying 'Klein maar fijn' which translates as 'Tiny but nice'. Do not be surprised by the narrow facade when you find this place near the station in a neighborhood that is full of small establishments. Sometimes, pearls are found in the oddest places. Let the cook surprise you with mouth-watering dishes that bring out the best of carefully selected local ingredients. And most importantly, an evening with the Tamazawas is not only a tasting journey but an experience through which a conversation flows in which we share with Yoshiki and Seiko, our thoughts, our passions about cooking and eating and the stories we each have of our lives. Please read my article to whet your appetite.
Hiroshima - Goemon - Okonomiyaki
When we asked a few locals to recommend an okonomiyaki place (savory Japanese pancake), they laughed and told us that they don't care for that dish. So okonomiyaki could be a bit of a touristic hype. None the less we looked around.
Initially we walked past some okonomiyaki restaurants in the center with pompous names like the 'Okonomiyaki Republic'. They might be good, but we were put off by the long lines of waiting foreigners. No Japanese customers in the lines. After a long search, we finally found Goemon Ebisucho which was packed with Japanese customers. We were the only foreigners! Without a reservation, we were lucky to get seats at the teppan counter, which is actually the best place with all the action. Note: Goemon is pronounced go-eh-mon. Fun fact. Hiroshima style okonomiyaki with stacked ingredients and the addition of noodles is very different from Osaka and Tokyo style okonomiyaki. So if you like this kind of food, try them out at all three locations.
Miyajima - Niwa Cafe - An oasis off the beaten track - Blog article
This adorable lunch cafe is actually located in a private back garden, in a back street away from the crowds. I hope you can find it. Not only was it a relief to escape the crowded streets, but every bit of the lovely lunch deal was a pleasure. None of the noise from the busy street reaches this back garden where we could enjoy our lunch at leisure, watching birds flitting about the whimsical and well kept garden. Please open the blog article for more details.
Momiji-manju
You'll find stores all over Miyajima selling this sweet that is shaped like the Momiji (maple) leaf. I don't have a specific store or brand to recommend. But try one. You don't have to buy an entire box. Most shops are happy to sell you one. It's rather sweet but pleasant. The traditional ones are usually filled with sweetened bean or chestnut paste. Although, having said that, chestnut paste might be a seasonal specialty limited to autumn. That is what we had, shown below. However, there could be other modern varieties like a custard filling to cater to younger tastes even through, I find such deviations a bit heretic. The sweets are shaped like the momiji leaf because the island is famous for the large number of momiji trees. There's even a park called Momiji Ko-en which will be on your way up to the highest point of the island. Especially in the autumn when the momiji turns bright red, Japanese tourists flock to this island to take in the spectacle.
Other food tips for all over Japan:
See tips in the Tokyo page on Konbini and the Ebi (shrimp) burgers of McDonalds and Mos Burger.
See:
Hiroshima Peace Park and Memorial Museum
A sobering reminder of war and the destructive power of nuclear weapons. I recommend reserving and booking your ticket in advance for the museum. The exhibits are heart wrenching and depressing. Like the remnants of the pyroclastic flow of Pompey, here I vividly remember shadows of persons or objects flashed burned into a wall or sidewalk. I've been here twice, once during a high school trip and later as an adult. Both times it was very crowded.
Miyajima
The red shrine gate standing in the seawater is ranked as one of the most iconic sights in Japan.* Since it is only a short train and ferry ride away from Hiroshima, it is a great day trip. However, it is best to check the ferry schedules and go there as early as possible. Don't forget to be in time for the last ferry back.
Like Nara, the wild semi-tame deer run rampant on this island. However, unlike the relatively well-behaved deer of Nara, these islanders will shamelessly try to steal any food or paper you might have in your hand or on your person. When I emerged from the supermarket with a warm meat Bapao in my hand, I was immediately mobbed. I ended up standing on a bench to stay out of reach while I ate my snack.
If you can, climb to the highest point on the island for a view of the surrounding sea and islands. We didn't manage last time because of my health. There is a ski-lift like contraption that usually takes you up to a point near the summit. However, that was down for maintenance.
Once you are up in the mountains, beware of wild monkeys. They can also snatch any objects they fancy and run for it. Also I was taught as a child to avoid locking eyes with the monkeys or smiling at them...both actions can be taken as a sign of aggression.
*One other place with shrine gates in the water is in Hakone.
Buy:
Stores with branches in all major cities:
If you want to shop for something other than tacky refrigerator magnets, try out some of these stores.
Stores like Muji, Tokyu Hands, Uniqlo and Zoff have branches in all major Japanese cities so you can plan in a shopping moment wherever you are. Please refer to the information on the Tokyo page for tips on what to buy at these stores.
Sleep & Soak:
Hiroshima - Via Inn Shinkansenguchi
In 2024, we were able to book our stay via booking.com and paid 210 euros for 2 nights in a larger King room. The hotel is right next to the Hiroshima shinkansen exit. The best part is beautiful onsen bath.
PS. Unless I've noted otherwise, all hotels I recommend also have coffee/tea making facilities in the room, a refrigerator, shower soap, shampoo, conditioner amenities and laundromats which allowed us to pack light. No need to pack detergent, since a wash to dry cycle includes detergent. The prices are what we paid at the time of travel before 2025 and will fluctuate depending on your travel dates.
PPS. See also Fun Tip at the bottom of the Tokyo page on a funny alternative to the conventional hotel.
