Kamakura - Big Buddha and Beaches
Don't forget to pack swimwear! This comes in handy for the mixed areas of the Onsen and if you are going for a swim at the beach.
By the way, I always end up staying in Tokyo because of my parental home which is right in the center, near the Imperial palaces. However, I didn't have this address, I would prefer lodging in the laid back Kamakura area.
Great Buddha of Kotokuin Temple
While the Buddha statue is not as gigantic as the one in Nara, it is still an impressive size and it is situated outdoors with the hills of Kamakura as a backdrop. Also we were able to go inside the bronze statue itself. Bizarrely, the back side of the statue has two windows that are opened to let in some light into the hollow interior.
While the Buddha statue is not as gigantic as the one in Nara, it is still an impressive size and it is situated outdoors with the hills of Kamakura as a backdrop. Also we were able to go inside the bronze statue itself. Bizarrely, the back side of the statue has two windows that are opened to let in some light into the hollow interior.
Yuigahama and Inamuragasaki - Beaches and Fireworks
Only a 15 min walk away, Yuigahama is Kamakura's main beach that faces the Pacific Ocean. When we went there off-season, the beach was empty. In the summer it is fairly crowded.
In my student days, I used to trek out Kamakura frequently since I had friends among the lifeguards stationed at Inamuragasaki and Yuigahama beaches. They taught me lifeguarding rescue skills and I would volunteer for duty at the lifeguard station when I was there.
Inamuragasaki which is south of Yuigahama is cleaner and less commercial and emptier. If you are in Japan in the summer and want to go for a swim, take the Enoden train to Inamuragasaki. One of the reasons it is emptier is the black iron-rich sand. That turns the beach into a frying pan. So sun-lovers tend to stick to Yuigahama. However, if you actually going to swim, Inamuragasaki is cleaner. In fact, the lifeguard chief said that thanks to the water currents in the area, the e.coli count at Inamuragasaki is always a fraction of the count in Yuigahama.
After hours when the Inamuragasaki beach cleared up, the lifeguards would sometimes row out beyond the surf and dive for shellfish. We threw our catch straight on to the BBQ at the lifeguard station. Given the cleaner water there, we had no qualms about eating these treats. Those were my 'baywatch' days.
If you are lucky and are there in the summer, you can see the fireworks spectacle at Yuigahama. They throw the fireworks into the water to explode. That means you not only see the splendid show from your seat on the sandy beach, but you also feel the explosion shockwave hitting you through the water and ground. Google 'Kamakura fireworks' for the exact date.
The Enoden railway runs along the coast from Kamakura station to Fujisawa station. It's a single line that threads it's way dangerously close to the houses near the coast. And time and again, you see the beautiful Pacific Ocean. The trains are antiques and have not changed since my childhood days and still have the atmosphere of the late Meiji period when it was inaugurated in 1920. I recommend taking the Enoden to go out to Enoshima for a dip in their Onsen.
On the Tokyo page, I mention two inner city Onsen Spas. This may be the closest countryside spa that has spectacular views from the bath. Normally Tokyoites will go further afield to Izu or towards Hakone for their spa getaways in the middle of nature. We were pleasantly surprised with the facilities. There's an area of hot pools which are not segregated by sex but require the use of swimwear. This meant I could soak in the onsen together with my husband as we gazed out across the bay to the distant spectacle of Mount Fuji.
This is also the view you can enjoy from their restaurant if you get the window seat. Unfortunately by the time we went up for lunch, it was hazier and we could still see Fuji but it was difficult to capture this on camera. The photos of the spa facilities are borrowed from the Enoshima Island Spa site.
Komachi street runs from Kamakura station to the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. And it is packed with a lot of snack vendors as well as gift shops. Things to try out are dango which look like small mochi balls on skewer with different sauces and the potato-meat croquettes. I don't have a specific shop to point you to. Just follow your nose and observe the reactions of the persons who are eating.
One specific tip I have is Kyo Kamakura which sells traditional zunda daifuku mochi containing a sweet edamame filling. Their daifuku are a piece of unadulterated history and you can tell from their minimal website and humble store that they don't need to be commercial since customers in the know will always find their tiny store.
One specific tip I have is Kyo Kamakura which sells traditional zunda daifuku mochi containing a sweet edamame filling. Their daifuku are a piece of unadulterated history and you can tell from their minimal website and humble store that they don't need to be commercial since customers in the know will always find their tiny store.
Hakone Round Trip - Mountains, volcanic geysers and a pirate boat ride
Technically, you can leave Tokyo very early in the morning and return late at night. However, we decided to set up base in Oiso, just two stops from Odawara station to have a more relaxing start. Another option is to find an onsen hotel in Hakone itself. However, I found most viable options were quite expensive. The Oiso Prince hotel afforded us an onsen, a spa overlooking the ocean and a room with a view. See tips on Oiso below.
First, go to the Odakyu Shinjuku station in Tokyo and buy the Hakone Free Pass ticket which covers the entire trip from Shinjuku to Hakone Yumoto and modes of transportation you need on this round trip and back. Prices are from around 6000 yen. There are two and three day passes in case you plan to stay at an onsen hotel in Hakone Yumoto.
Alternately, if your JR pass is still valid, take the Shinkansen to Odawara and buy the Hakone Free Pass day ticket there. Then it costs around 5000 yen. You can use the Free Pass from this point onwards to take the local Odakyu line to the Hakone Yumoto station.
1. From Hakone Yumoto station, first change to the Hakone Tozan Railway that makes the laborious climb up the mountain to Gora. The train will make a series of switchbacks to climb up the steep mountainside. If you are lucky you get to ride one of the antique trains which are beautifully analog.
2. Next in Gora, change to the Hakone Tozan Cable Car that climbs another steep incline to Sounzan. It will be crowded, but try to get a spot at the very back where you get a good view of the back down the tracks.
3. From Sounzan, step over to the Hakone Ropeway that sends you 'flying' from mountaintop to mountaintop and across ravines in a gondola. The halfway station of the ropeway is Owakudani where you can step out to experience volcanic Japan. See segment on Owakudani below.
4. From Owakudani, continue on the ropeway down to Togendai on the shores of Lake Ashinoko. Make sure you take the correct ropeway or else you will end back in Sounzan.
5. At Togendai, board a 'pirate' ship that cruises across the Lake Ashinoko to Hakone-machi and on to the last stop Moto-Hakone. As you approach Moto-Hakone you can see the red shrine gates out in the water, just like Miyajima.
VERY IMPORTANT! Stay on the boat until the last stop Moto-Hakone. Two reasons:
1. The Bakery and Table cafe with great food and the best view of the lake.
VERY IMPORTANT! Stay on the boat until the last stop Moto-Hakone. Two reasons:
1. The Bakery and Table cafe with great food and the best view of the lake.
2. This is the starting point for the bus you need to take back to Hakone-Yumoto so you can be seated as the bus navigates the hairpin curves down the mountain. If you try to get on at Hakone-machi (the earlier boat stop) you will end up standing in an already full bus.
If you have time, you could get out at Hakone-machi and board a later ship to go to Moto Hakone. One reason for disembarking at Hakone-machi is to explore the old Tokaido-Hakone checkpoint which was used during the Edo period to control traffic between Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto.
The first thing visitors notice when they leave the gondola at Owakudani is the stench of sulfur. It brings to mind Dante and the nine circles of hell. All over there are plumes of steam and smoke rising from fissures throughout this valley. There used to be a walking path the allowed visitors to hike between pools of bubbling hot water. However, recently they have restricted public access. Organized walking tours are available but the number of places are limited and even with reservations, tours might be cancelled depending on the weather and seismic conditions. At Owakudani there are some facilities such as a much needed toilet and places to get snacks etc. One specialty is the black boiled eggs. The inside looks and tastes normal (my husband tried one egg) but the shell turns pitch black from being boiled in the sulfurous hot springs.
Disembarking in Moto Hakone, you can see the tall building of Bakery and Table right by the water next to the pier. We did browse all other options in town but we doubled back to the bakery and were amazed by the view form the top floor counter seats. The shop has a bakery with long lines on the ground floor and has an interesting system where customers can take their trays of sandwiches and pastries purchased in the shop to the upper cafe floors to get a table. The only condition is to order drinks. We didn't like standing in line, so we went straight up to the top floor cafe and signed in to the waiting list for a counter seat and ordered from the menu. The bewitching view of the lake with the Pirate ships coming and going as well as the sandwich with smoked duck and the cheese cake were to die for.
Hakone wood mosaic puzzle boxes
One sourvenir to get is the Hakone puzzle box which features typical intricate wood mosaic on the outside and a clever system for opening the box. Don't just go into the closest shop near the boat pier. Walk a bit and you'll find less commercial souvenir stores like Shimeki where I got my box. The difference is paying 5000 yen for a box that opens after 5 moves or a box that is more complex and takes 11 moves to open. Look for quality in the woodwork. The patterns should match up perfectly and hide which sections of the box actually moves.
If there is time to stay in the Hakone area and if you have acquired the multi-day Hakone Free Pass, then there is a surprising number of world class museums in the Hakone mountains. Please follow the link to check them out.
Oiso Sleep, Soak & Eat:
Unfortunately, I don't have any specific tips for an Onsen hotel in Hakone Yumoto. If we had more time, we would have gotten a two or three day Hakone Free Pass to stay in Hakone Yumoto and explore the various museums of the area. One name, Kowakien, does come to mind since they are synonymous with quality and I've stayed there when I was younger. The onsen and food (you normally book a room with dinner as well) is simply fabulous. However it also massive. You could try to find cosier more affordable onsen hotels on the internet.
Instead of expensive hotels in the Hakone area, we went for a seaside onsen resort, a few train stops away from Odawara. It has beautiful onsen bathing facilities and a rooftop sauna and spa with an infinity pool seamlessly merging with the waters of the Pacific. For the spa area, you do need to wear swimwear.
As for dining in this area, the establishments are sparse. I think many guests end up dining at the hotel which is on the expensive side. However, we did find a surprisingly great Chinese roadside restaurant, a couple of minutes away. See below.
This roadside restaurant minutes away from the Oiso Prince hotel was an incredible find. Beware that their portions are extremely large. We ordered two items and one was enough to fill us up. With over 200 items on their menu and a great cook, I was surprised to find a place like this outside China Town in Yokohama. We had stir-fried pork with greens, Okoge which is like hot stir fry and the sauce poured on to hot crackling fried rice crackers and fried sesame seed dumplings for dessert. The prices are all extremely affordable making this one of the best value for money places we have encountered.
Nikko Tosho-gu - A show of Tokugawa Shogunate's power and wealth
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