Fun Fact:
Bubuzuke - The one Kyoto dish you must refuse!
In Osaka you have 'ku i da o re', ruining yourself by pursuing good food. In Kyoto, it is 'ki da o re', going bankrupt through an obsession for kimonos and being well dressed. My mother's side of the family originates from Nara and Kyushu and they have a bit of both although my family tends to overspend on good food rather than kimonos.
One thing that sets Kyoto apart from Osaka and Nara is their culture of not being direct and expecting the other party to suss out the true message. For example, when a Kyotoite is annoyed by the next door neighbor's children practicing on the piano at all hours, he might greet his neighbor and say 'Oh my, how dedicated your children are with the piano lessons.' Sounds like a compliment, but it isn't.
When I was working for the publishing houses in Tokyo and I was sent to Kyoto for the first time, my chief editor warned, 'If they offer you a portion of Bubuzuke, politely leave asap!' Since I didn't know what Bubuzuke was, I asked. It's just what we call Ochazuke in the rest of Japan. Nothing spectacular. It is what we would make with leftover rice, tea or soup and some sprinkles. The editor felt I should be warned because I am likely to say 'Yes please!' to any food offering. In fact, in another job, my colleagues placed a 'Please do not feed' sign on my desk. So I do seem to have that reputation. Well, the offering of Bubuzuke in Kyoto is a signal that you've outstayed your welcome and should leave. And it is a very serious message. In fact, a high school friend who stayed on Japan lost his job when he didn't get the hint and the company's important customer ended up having to serve him the Bubuzuke. Now you have also been warned.
Eat:
On our last trip to Kyoto, it was so crowded that we skipped a lot of the sights and only did a quick day trip. For lunch I went to an old address I know from childhood because they have great lunch deals. See Kikusui below. For dinner that day, unfortunately we just chose a random Japanese style spaghetti restaurant that was quick, cheap and good. If we had more time and energy we would have gone to Shiruko (see below). And on our way from Nara to Kanazawa, we passed again through Kyoto station. That gave us the opportunity to explore the restaurant floor of the Isetan department store that is part of the station building.
Minari Korean Restaurant - Hot spicy lunches
If you are in or near Kyoto station and looking for a place to eat, ride the escalators in the cavernous station hall all the way to the top. At the top of the escalators you reach the 11th floor of the Isetan department store which is the restaurant floor. We went for a nice spicy Korean lunch at Minari. However, you can look around and see what you feel like. In addition to Minari, they have good cross section of Kyoto cuisine (Kyoto tofu, tempura, udon and soba) as well as an Omelette specialty restaurant, a cafe, a Chinese restaurant and so on. One thing is for sure. You won't go hungry while you wait for your next train. Read also my text on the Sky Garden below.
Kikusui - Japanese take on Western food but great lunch deals
After exploring the overly packed Kiyomizu Temple area and climbing up Maruyama Park to the Otani Mausoleum to visit the family grave, we grabbed the bus to the main commercial district of Shijo. There's a lot more choice when it comes to eateries there. On the corner, next to Shijo bridge you'll find Kikusui. Although Kikusui specializes in so-called Western food, it is a delicate Japanese interpretation of European cuisine that is delicious. They've been in business since 1916 so that is evidence of their quality.
Personally, I have childhood memories of dining here with my parents time and again for a good lunch. There's a display case outside showing you what the current lunch deal is. For about 2000 yen, if I remember correctly, we had a soup, a small salad and a succulent burger steak drenched in a rich demi-glace sauce, a dessert of fruits, ice cream and pudding and a cup of tea.
Note: There is another branch of Kikusui which is a high-end Ryokan and serves posh Kyoto kaiseki and French cuisine. Their the lunches start from 6000 and dinners from 10000. While it is gorgeous to dine there in the secluded Japanese villa, if you are looking for affordable and authentic Kyoto cuisine, try out Shiruko (below).
Shiruko - Kyoto cuisine off the beaten path
Tucked behind the main road going through Shijo, Shiruko is a cozy authentic Kyoto restaurant serving kaiseki without the fuss and high price tag. They have a lunch and dinner set that is affordable. I didn't have any decent photos in myself so I took the liberty of grabbing some screenshots from their site. Since the restaurant is tiny and they barely speak English, reserving a table could be a challenge. Perhaps ask someone from the hotel to make the call in your stead? Or aim for a table at the very start of the lunch or dinner period. Last time I checked, they are open for lunch 11:30 to 15:00 and for dinner 17:00 - 21:00. That way you may still have some luck.
Note: There is another branch of Kikusui which is a high-end Ryokan and serves posh Kyoto kaiseki and French cuisine. Their the lunches start from 6000 and dinners from 10000. While it is gorgeous to dine there in the secluded Japanese villa, if you are looking for affordable and authentic Kyoto cuisine, try out Shiruko (below).
Shiruko - Kyoto cuisine off the beaten path
Tucked behind the main road going through Shijo, Shiruko is a cozy authentic Kyoto restaurant serving kaiseki without the fuss and high price tag. They have a lunch and dinner set that is affordable. I didn't have any decent photos in myself so I took the liberty of grabbing some screenshots from their site. Since the restaurant is tiny and they barely speak English, reserving a table could be a challenge. Perhaps ask someone from the hotel to make the call in your stead? Or aim for a table at the very start of the lunch or dinner period. Last time I checked, they are open for lunch 11:30 to 15:00 and for dinner 17:00 - 21:00. That way you may still have some luck.
The photo on the upper left is an example of their typical dinner set with the flavored rice presented in the shape of fan. That dinner or lunch set goes for around 5000 yen. The food is so good that my father would dine here every night when he was in Kyoto for a conference. The restaurant owners used to joke that he might as well stay with them and commute to the conference venue from their restaurant.
Star Bucks - A matcha latte on traditional tatami mats
This is just a Star Bucks but not as you normally know it. Right on the picturesque Ninenzaka street, you can sip your café latte or better yet a matcha latte in a traditional Japanese Kyoto house. Because it is rather famous, you need to be in luck to snag the tatami seating inside. Read also my text on Kiyomizu, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka below as well as the segment on Ochanoko Sai Sai.
Nishiki Market Shopping District - Han-nama Kashi - Tea ceremony sweets
Star Bucks - A matcha latte on traditional tatami mats
This is just a Star Bucks but not as you normally know it. Right on the picturesque Ninenzaka street, you can sip your café latte or better yet a matcha latte in a traditional Japanese Kyoto house. Because it is rather famous, you need to be in luck to snag the tatami seating inside. Read also my text on Kiyomizu, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka below as well as the segment on Ochanoko Sai Sai.
Nishiki Market Shopping District - Han-nama Kashi - Tea ceremony sweets
Walk into the shopping district and look out for shops selling typical Han Nama Kashi which are used for tea ceremony. Han-nama means half raw but no worries. It is perfectly safe to eat. It is called half raw because it differs from dried hard sweets like 'hi-gashi' or baked manju sweets. It is fresh and soft, made from various ingredients like sweet bean paste and sometimes mochi. They look like tiny pieces of art. The reason we don't see them abroad is because they don't do well with long distance shipping. As far as I know, there's one store in Paris that makes the Japanese sweets fresh.
Also in the photo below to the right, something that looks like brown cookies. These are Mikasa which is the Kyoto version of what we call Dorayaki. It's like bean paste sandwiched between two fluffy pancakes.
Other food tips for all over Japan:
See tips in the Tokyo page on Konbini and the Ebi (shrimp) burgers of McDonalds and Mos Burger.
See:
Kiyomizu Temple, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka - Brace yourselves for the crowds
We tried to get to Kiyomizu as early as possible and still by the time we got there around 9:30, it was teaming with busloads of school children and tourists. It is what it is. The photo on the left shows the early morning crowd. The photo to the right shows two views from Kiyomizu taken on two different trips. Once I ended up slipping in just before closing time. The crowds then were actually not that bad. The structure and the views from high up are just as spectacular regardless of the time of day. However, I found the view at dusk more breathtaking.
From Kiyomizu, walk down the Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka nearby. These two streets going down the hill from Kiyomizu are full of shops in structures which have been strictly maintained in the old Kyoto style. You could imagine how this place was like a few centuries ago if you can erase the crowds and souvenirs. See the photo of the Star Bucks on Ninenzaka in the segment above. See also Ochanoko Sai Sai in the shopping section.
Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji - The gold and silver temples
Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji - The gold and silver temples
If you are hard pressed for time, go for the gold temple Kinkakuji just because it is more spectacular. Although the photo I managed to take shows the temple in its splendid setting, behind us and around us were again, unavoidable crowds of tourists. This is the reason, I recommend spending more time in Nara.
However, if you do have time to visit both, spend more time at Ginkakuji, the silver temple. While Kinkakuji is all bling, Ginkakuji which is not encased in silver is more true to the Japanese aesthetic of wabi and sabi. Last time I was at Ginkakuji, it was already getting dark so I couldn't take any representative photos. The one below is 'borrowed' from the official site.
From Kinkakuji, if the weather is fair and if you are into zen rock gardens, walk 20 minutes to Ryoanji to see their world famous rock garden.
We quickly left Kinkakuji to go to the bamboo grove and from there to the Arashiyama district. The first challenge is the overcrowded bus stop closest to Kinkakuji. Google maps will try to direct you to take the bus back towards the Shijo area to change to a local train for Arashiyama. Technically, that is the fastest route. However, seeing the crowds milling about the bus stop, all wanting to get back to Kyoto center, we needed to think out of the box. First we avoided the main bus stop near the temple and walked further to the next stop in the opposite direction, away from the center. There we found a bus line (59) leading away from the center that passes by Ryoanji and takes the long route through the hills and northern edge of Kyoto to Hirosawa lake. Since it's not going towards the center, besides us, only two local ladies were waiting for the bus. The route through the hills and suburbs was nice and scenic. Near Hirosawa lake, the bus 59 reaches a terminal station where we changed to another bus, I think it was the 93 that got us close to bamboo groves. Was it worth it? Yes, we rather enjoyed the long bus ride and bamboo is always spectacular albeit, again, throngs of tourists. Just in case, I've added the link to the bus route map. Just trying to decipher it gives me a headache.
Arashiyama district - My favorite part of Kyoto
From the bamboo forest walk south towards the famous Togetsukyo bridge that spans the Katsura river. The last time we were there, I realized all my life for some reason I never completely crossed the bridge to the Arashiyama side. Too busy, too cold, too hungry, had to go somewhere... We were getting a bit chilled as the sun set, but I convinced my husband to walk over and explore the Arashiyama side of the river. We were not disappointed.
As the sun set and the sky darkened, the lights of the traditional Ryokan hotels turned on and lit up the area against the black shadow of Arashiyama behind it. On the river, numerous Yakata-bune, party boats with small traditional cabins graced the shores. It was a relief to stroll around this area which felt so much more authentic and peaceful than any other part of Kyoto. If I have to stay in Kyoto, I would try to find a hotel in this area. The only disadvantage is perhaps the distance from Kyoto station and most of the temples.
To return to Kyoto station, it is a bit counter intuitive but you can catch the 28 bus at the bridge, heading away from the center towards Arashiyama. Like the 59, this route goes southbound along the outer edge of the Arashiyama district before turning eastwards to Kyoto station.
Kyoto Sky Garden - Hope you have some time to explore around Kyoto Station
Above I describe the Korean lunch we had at Minari which is at the top of this long line of escalators in the Kyoto station hall. Going up these escalators is not quite something I would recommend if you have a touch of acrophobia. If you are really fit or masochistic, consider running up the stairs instead. At the end of the escalators, you've reached the restaurant floor of Isetan (11F). There are more stairs that go further up to the 15th floor which is the Sky Garden. It's a great place to take in the view of the city as well as a place for a picnic. However, note the warning signs for hawks which can swoop down to steal your sandwich. The link above, is the official site of Kyoto station. Scroll down and you'll find information on the Sky Garden.
Buy:
Ochanoko Sai Sai - Spices and rice sprinkles to take home
Located on the Ninenzaka (see above), this shop is the reason that each time I go to Kyoto I end up in the crowded Kiyomizu district. While writing this and finding the website of Ochanoko Sai Sai, I discovered they are keeping up with the times. They now ship their spices worldwide.
However, I prefer to get a couple sachets for myself and my friends when I'm at their store. So what's so unique about these spices? Well they are known for the traditional Shichimi which means 7 flavors. This blend of 7 spices (not necessary their product) is on the table in all udon noodle restaurants and adds a nice punch to the udon. At Ochanoko Sai Sai, they go beyond the traditional 7 and are also experimenting with non-Japanese ingredients like habanero. Enter the store and enjoy the dizzying assortment, taste some blends on rice crackers, and try out new combinations of spices. My favorite featured below blends red pepper with yuzu zest which is great for roast chicken.
The balancing dragonfly - Buy it if you can find it...
One time in the bamboo grove, I found a vendor who was selling the bamboo balancing dragonfly as souvenirs. I got a red one out of nostalgia. Aka tonbo (red dragonfly) features in a Japanese folk song which I sang as a child. Bringing this fragile dragonfly back intact took some careful packaging and effort. I'm glad it survived the trip and it now has a place on my dining room table next to my work space, reminding me of Kyoto.
It may be nice if you could find this in Kyoto, but to be honest, I also see that you can order them in bulk from Amazon, Etsy and so forth. Just google 'balancing dragonfly'. Sometimes, the world getting smaller takes the fun out of things.
It may be nice if you could find this in Kyoto, but to be honest, I also see that you can order them in bulk from Amazon, Etsy and so forth. Just google 'balancing dragonfly'. Sometimes, the world getting smaller takes the fun out of things.
Other stores with branches in all major cities:
Stores like Muji, Tokyu Hands, Uniqlo and Zoff have branches in all major Japanese cities so you can plan in a shopping moment wherever you are. Please refer to the information on the Tokyo page for tips on what to buy at these stores
Sleep:
See Nara page. We prefer staying in quiet and inexpensive Nara as a base when visiting the Kansai area. It's an easy 1 hour local train ride to Osaka.See also Fun Tip at the bottom of the Tokyo page on a funny alternative to the conventional hotel.
