Miyajima - Niwa Cafe - An oasis off the beaten track

This adorable lunch cafe is actually located in a private back garden, in a back street away from the crowds. The name 'Niwa' means garden. We found it by chance when we got sick and tired of the crowded main streets and ducked into a residential back street. 

I hope you can find it. Even though there are some signs advertising their lunch deals, I nearly missed the narrow path between two residential buildings that led us to the quaint back garden and cafe. It's really in a location where you don't expect to find a restaurant. And my goodness, did we dine well! The affordable lunch deals were delicious. The wagyu beef lunch cost ca 2500 yen and the pork ginger lunch was ca 1500 yen. Dessert was not included in the lunch set but we couldn't pass up the incredible creamy and rich pudding.The photos below should whet your appetite. 

https://www.instagram.com/niwacafe_miyama/?hl=ja

Address to copy into google maps: Hiroshima, Hatsukaichi, Miyajimacho, 527-2

Hiroshima - Di Grotto Tamazawa - Hidden Italian jewel

What a find! An amazing Italian restaurant worthy of a Michelin star. Only a couple of customers can fit along the counter along the kitchen where Yoshiki Tamazawa whips up course after course of amazing Italian food...and that with just one arm since he lost use of his right arm due to a stroke. This was our dinner: plate with chestnut butter broth, apple walnut creme salad and shako (a type of shrimp) on a daikon radish slice, grilled assorted veg, butter garlic oysters for my husband, soft slow-cooked beef tongue with almond for me, homemade gnocchi with his signature tomato sauce made from 3 different local tomatoes, tender juicy lamb with rosemary, duck breast with dark berry sauce, spaghetti with assorted mushrooms, spaghetti with cream and wild boar sausage (so good the we begged for an extra portion and we got it😉), and finally a heavenly panna cotta with a sauce of reduced red wine and orange. Not only was the food superb but the intimate atmosphere and the personal contact with Yoshiki and his wife Seiko made this dinner an unforgettable celebration of my 60th birthday.

Note 1: When we dined there, they didn't have a menu per se. They do 'omakase' which means you leave it entirely up to the cook. I think we paid around 15,000 yen for the entire meal of 7 courses. In the end it was eight courses because we were able to ask for a half portion of duck and a half portion of lamb for the meat course since we could not make a choice. Please do ask what the dinner that day will cost and/or tell them what your budget is. And also communicate if you have allergies or anything you do not like or cannot eat. For example, I was served the beef tongue instead of oysters. Also note that most dishes were served as a double serving on one plate to be shared.

Note 2: Due to some horrible setting in google maps (possibly favoring the business accounts that pay advertising fees to google) you really have to zoom in to see the location of Di Grotto. And even then, the name of the restaurant may not even be displayed. So I've added screenshots of the map so you can visit Yoshiki and Seiko.

https://www.instagram.com/di_grotto_tamazawa_2014/?hl=en

Barcelona - Sagardi Argenteria - Basque Delights

 In 2022, we had the pleasure of dining here with my then boss and her husband. And thanks to them, we had a taste of Basque cuisine. I'm not sure if you can actually make reservations. However, it is worth trying because the place is packed. If the weather is nice, there are tables on the plaza outside. Only beware, there will be smokers. Inside is smoke free, however tables are small and you end up precariously perched on bar stools.

While the seating might not be so comfortable, that is quickly forgotten when you see the incredible display of pinchos on the bar. These are bite-sized creations held together with colour-coded toothpicks. You are free to help yourself to whatever pincho that attacts you. Just save the toothpicks because the color coding is linked to the per-item price and they will tally up the toothpicks in the end for your bill.

As if the pinchos were not enough, this is a carnivore's walhalla with superb cuts of dry-aged beef. And if you are able to drink alcohol  (Lucky you! I cannot due to the lack the necessary enzymes) try ordering their cider. This is served in a spectacular theatrical manner of pouring the cider from more than a meter above the glass. As I learned from my friends, this is not just for show. It is actually functional. The pouring technique will aerate the cider and reduce the bitterness. 

Note: There are several Sargardi's in Barcelona. The one we enjoyed is Sargardi Argenteria, C. de Argenteria 62. Be sure to go there with a large appetite.

PS. That's me on the left looking way too happy, pointing at the dry-aged beef in the window.

Barcelona - Lady Dumpling - Little Dragon Dumplings

I first stumbled upon this store in the alleyways of the Barrio Gotico of Barcelona in September 2022. We were just married a month ago and my husband accompanied me on a business trip to Barcelona. This small shop caught my eye because, in the window, the lady was making xiao long bao dumplings by hand. I was astounded. My husband, despite having been to mainland China when he was younger, did not know what these dumplings were. And hence I had to explain.

Xiao Long Bao 小籠包 - the three characters mean Small, Dragon, Bun or Dumpling. A good one is a very special treat. I first saw this on a televised reportage where a journalist was trying it out somewhere as street food in China. It is also a tricky dumpling. A small meatball together with some cold aspic (gelatine) is wrapped in the dough and steamed. As a result you have a dumpling with a meatball and piping hot broth. Try to nibble it, then the broth dribbles out. Try to eat one whole, you'll burn your mouth. Hence the 'dragon' in the name. Given the right utensils, you can place one in a spoon, puncture it with your chopsticks to drain the broth into the spoon, eat the dumpling and then sip the rest. No burns, no mess.

I am addicted to this dumpling. When in Tokyo, I would always go for my Xiao Long Bao fix at one of the Din Tai Fung restaurants. Unfortunately, Din Tai Fung has not yet landed in the Netherlands. So to find a fresh Xiao Long Bao shop in Europe was amazing.

2023 Update. We went back again and the quality was a bit less. Still tasty but maybe they steamed the dumplings too long, there was barely any liquid broth in the dumpling. And that is the very raison d'être of a xiao long bao. 

What we also noticed on Google maps was that there were now three Lady Dumplings in Barcelona. The lady working in the Barrio Gotico establishment was not same lady in the 2022 photo above. I have a feeling that the lady above is the founder. She is also the lady on the Lady Dumpling website. When we visited the first time, she was making the dumplings with great enthusiasm, love, skill and pide. I would like to find the store where she's making the dumplings. Or maybe due to the business expanding, she's now upper management. 

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaolongbao

https://www.ladydumpling.com/

Dusseldorf – Furusato – The joyful taste of home

Discovering Furusato was one of those wonderful accidents of life. I had just wandered into Carlsplatz, the gourmet food market in the Dusseldorf Altstadt (old town). With no particular goal in mind, I was wandering between the stalls of exotic foods, taking in the sights like new vegetables hereto unknown to myself and enticing cuts of meat and enjoying the scent of fresh baked bread, steaming pasta and flowers.

Suddenly, the name Furusato written in large friendly Japanese script catches my eye. Furusato means ‘home town’ or ‘homeland’ in the deepest sense. It means the place of origin from where one comes from and one longs to return to. It is a word that touches an emotional spot in all Japanese living abroad.

I notice the kitchen window through which I spot a mountain of Japanese fried chicken ‘kara-age’ and I look up to see the friendly face of Chen Sun smiling at me. He greets me in Japanese and I tell him that if I had known about his shop, I wouldn’t have lunched elsewhere. I also tell him I love kara-age but that I’m regrettable full. Then he tells me to wait for a moment and fries up two large pieces to taste. Touched and moved by the gesture, I savor the succulent warm chicken in the crispy batter.

Good food invites heartfelt contact and more conversation. I found out to my surprise that the Chen Sun is actually Chinese. I couldn't initially tell from the way he speaks Japanese like a native. And I guess 30 years in Osaka would make one a native. As we reminisced over our respective roots, Chen Sun tells me of the good times growing up in his grandfather's mansion in Tianjin southeast of Beijing where he and the other children would hang out by the great kitchen where a staff of 12 cooked for the family and fed tasty treats to the children. That was where he first acquired his love for food and his fantastic store of knowledge.

The two pieces of chicken quickly led to an invitation to come inside for a cup of tea and an introduction to his wife Yuki Nagatsu who was busy making gyoza dumplings. Yes, that means Furusato’s gyoza is truly homemade. And this alone with the fried chicken is worth putting Furusato in my blog. However, there was more.

Chen Sun tells me of the meat and pototo korokke (croquettes) which he recently added to his menu. Then as if heaven had been listening, another regular Japanese customer entered the shop to order the korokke. And as she joined our conversation, I was touched by yet another kind gesture. She broke off a large piece of the korokke and insisted that I have some.  The first bite was like a revelation, an explosion of taste so good that I could only say ‘Wow’. No wonder his regular customers include the Japanese consulate staff and many others who come in each week. I would find it very difficult to find a korokke in Tokyo that would match his. In any case, this is the first time a korokke made me say ‘Wow’.

Chen Sun then lets me in on the secret behind his korokke. Next to his shop is the stall of a world famous potato specialist Das Kartoffelhaus Carlsplatz. They supply him with a specific potato named Heide Laura. And he mentions that he also gets much of his other ingredients fresh from various vendors in the market. Hence as the lady who ordered the korokke points out, even the humble cabbage side-salad is a treat in itself. And in the summer, Chen Sun serves cucumbers from his own garden, grown from seeds taken from his hometown Tianjin. Apparently these cucumbers surpass all local European varieties. Now, this information has me making a mental note to travel to Dusseldorf again during cucumber season.

In fact, I know now that I must make many more trips back to Furusato as there are so many things to draw me back. Of course, korokke and kara-age and gyoza are high on my list but so are the stewed porkbelly (kakuni) and the beef ramen noodles. But it is not just the good food. It is the contact and the joy of sharing and conversing that makes Furusato ‘home’ for many.

I regret now that I do not live close to Dusseldorf. On the other hand, to travel back to Furusato is a befitting concept. After all, one longs to journey back to the homeland far away. 

Nijmegen - Makro - Gourmet food court

The Makro is a wholesale supplier for business and restaurant owners with large warehouse-like stores situated in the industrial areas of major cities in the Netherlands. As such, it is a paradise for foodies who have a Marko pass…unfortunately you must be written into the Dutch Chamber of Commerce as a business to acquire a Makro pass.

Years ago, the Makro traded in their cafeteria-like restaurant which served up simple snacks and meals for a classy shiny open kitchen in the middle of warehouse. It is a bit odd to see this island of sparkling wine glasses, shiny counters and a fully equipped kitchen just off the aisles for kitchen ware, cutlery and olive oils and in view of the bakery and refrigerated meat section.

They’ve christened this the Food Court. However Food Court is a misnomer for this open kitchen. For one, I tend to associate the term ‘food court’ with the collection of fast food joints clustered into an area in the shopping mall. And that association is so far from what this food court is about. Here, the cook on duty prepares lovely dishes to order as you savor your glass of wine at the counter. And these are not just your ordinary snacks. My favorite is the large serving of freshly chopped (not ground) beef tartare topped off with a slice of fois gras and a quail egg. Other choices are duck served with risotto, venison stew with vegetables and a ribeye steak on bread. The menu varies according to season so let yourself be surprised. There’s also a catch of the day that varies and sometimes a half lobster with risotto or salad is offered. My favorite cook, Nick not only prepares the food but presents each dish with an artistic flair. It is a pleasure to see him carefully arrange the meat and the vegetables in a beautiful composition. And this is all at a price that is unbelievable. The steak on bread goes for about 10 euros and the tartare with fois gras will set you back around 17 euros.

 The reason such luxury is available for barely the cost of the ingredients is based on the fact that the Makro food court is intended as a showcase to inspire their customers to try out the food they sell. Everything served at the food court can be bought in the Makro store, from live lobsters to fois gras, exotic vegetables and mushrooms to a choice selection of cheeses. And this strategy works. So far, each time I drop by after work to see Nick and grab my dinner, I’ve ended up picking up some choice groceries…a kilo of frozen fois gras, ribeye steaks, padrone peppers and so on. If you don’t have a Makro pass, I suggest you find someone who does and tag along one day.

https://www.makro.nl/

2023 - Long overdue update. Makro downsized their food court service during the corona pandemic. And sadly, the gourmet food that I so loved is no longer available.

Nijmegen - Blonde Pater - Gorgeous pinchos, salads and sandwiches

Situated on the corner of the Houtstraat and the Lange Hezelstraat, the Blonde Pater is my favorite spot for lunch on a busy shopping day in the center of Nijmegen. They excel in sandwiches with a variety of breads ranging from toasted cornbread to crisp ciabatta. The fillings ranging from goat cheese vegetarian concoctions to a mean mouthwatering pastrami. On a paleo diet? Then go for their sumptuous salads. My favorite is the Sydney salad generously topped with large shrimp and prepared with an Asian dressing.

In accompaniment to the great dishes, the Blonde Pater has an excellent range of coffees, teas and thirst quenching fresh beverages. Personally I almost always go for their homemade fresh ginger tea in the winter and homemade ginger ale in the summer. The ginger tea featured in the photo below is on its own a treat consisting of paper thin slices of ginger, a stick of cinnamon and a wedge of lime served with honey.

For the adventurous, I recommend planning your visit on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday evening when they serve pinchos. These are culinary creations mostly stacked on small slices of bread. Ordinarily, you would be able to eat pinchos as finger food. However, their pinchos are quite formidable. The way each piece of bread is stacked with a tower of creative ingredients makes it physically impossible to take a bite without causing an avalanche down your shirt front. I’ve enjoyed their pinchos in several occasions and am surprised they have not yet run out of creative ingredient combinations. An example would be grilled eggplant with a sweet sauce topped with a dried date stuffed with cream cheese or a half egg stuffed with salmon tartare and shrimp and avocado. The pinchos go for 1.90 euros each and the end tally is made by counting the decorative toothpick that holds the tower of food in place. Note, six of these pinchos is enough to fill you up for the evening.

http://www.blondepater.nl/

Amsterdam - Small World - Foodie heaven on earth

Just a short 15 minute trot from Central Station down the Harlemmerstraat, look for the side street Binnen Oranjestraat on the left-hand side. You can’t miss the green awning that marks the corner shop ‘Small World’. A word of advice: do not get tempted by the various other cafes and bakeries in the Harlemmerstraat on the way there. For those who can resist temptation, the ultimate food reward awaits.

The shop is indeed on the small side with a shelf that serves as a counter/table along the windows with seating for about nine. When the weather is kinder, there are seats and tables on the outside. And even on colder days, the outside seating is still a necessity to accommodate the unlucky ones who spill out of the shop. However, nothing in Small World is ‘small’ when it comes to the dishes cooked up by Sean and his team. The first thing that catches one’s eye is the colorful array of cakes and pies, quiche, tortilla, oven-cooked chicken, salads and roasted veggies in the glass case. Glance to the wall on the right and there’s a list of mouth-watering sandwiches which makes it even more agonizing to come up with a decision. And there’s fresh fruit and vegetable juice to top off the gastronomic act of sin you are just about to indulge in. Since one cannot possibly eat the spanakopita, lamb burrito and the fresh tuna sashimi on ciabatta in a single sitting and live to take a bite of one of the luscious cakes, the solution may be to go with friends and share. My personal favorites are the goat-cheese-pumpkin quiche, string bean-parmesan-walnut salad, the roasted vegetables, the carrot cake and fresh orange-carrot juice with extra ginger. Yes I confess...sometimes I managed this in a single sitting.

Behind the counter, Sean and his team are in a whirl of constant motion, cooking up more to keep up with the demand.  And despite the hectic pace, there is a stream of lively banter between the customers and Sean that adds spice to the food and makes this place so special. When I was living in Amsterdam, Small World has always has been a haven of good food that kept me going after work.

https://smallworldcatering.nl/

P.S. If you live and/or work in Amsterdam, you are soooo lucky. Sean offers catering so you can treat yourself and your friends at home or in your office.

Amsterdam - Mantoe - Let the cook surprise you

Mantoe is the name of my favorite Afghani dish - a thin skinned meat dumpling topped with dollops of tomato sauce and rich yogurt. The restaurant that names itself after this humble yet delicious creation is the place for those seeking to be surprised. You can chose the number of courses you desire however there is no description of what is being served. Of course you can specify allergies and preferences like no meat or an aversion to something specific...okra in my case. However for the rest the fun is being surprised. Today my friend and I were served celeriac root soup with a hint cumin, mantoes, fragrant rice steamed with cumin and served with slivers of candied orange zest, spicy chicken with a bite of pickled pumpkin, tender stewed and mildly spicy beef with a side spinach, cabbage and string beans. The restaurant filled up quickly as the evening progressed. Thus a reservation is probably a good idea.
http://restaurantmantoe.nl/frontpage-en/

Amsterdam - Winkel - An apple cake a day...

The perfect place to rest after a stroll in central Amsterdam. Do not let the long line of customers waiting to be seated daunt you. The reason people brave the long wait for a much coveted seat is the gorgeous apple cake. I call it apple cake since it's too tall to classify as a pie. The rich buttery outside contains a bumper crop of apples with lashings of cinnamon. This was one of my favorite hangouts on a weekend. The cafe also has a great kitchen for soups and sandwiches. However, beware, when it's market day on the Noordermarkt square in front of the cafe, the menu may be limited to the apple cake. Not that anybody complains about this. I admire the energy, determination and dedication with which the kitchen staff churn out a continuous stream of fresh baked apple cake.
https://winkel43.nl/