There’s a fair amount of cheerful shouting going on as staff greet customers entering and thank departing customers. And do not be alarmed when this shouting goes up a notch. Once in a while, one of the sushi chefs will take a net and extract a fish from the large aquarium at the back. The fish – still flapping – will be held up high and displayed while a chef announces which type of fish it is. In response, eager customers start yelling back orders as the poor fellow meets its untimely end. That unfortunately is how fresh sushi is made.
The best seats are at the counter where you can see all the action. You can try to ask for a seat by Eiji Shibata's section if he is on duty. Maybe you could ask Japanese staff at your hotel to make call for you and reserve a seat, or if they are not taking reservations, at least check if Eiji Shibata is on duty on a specific date and time.
Note: Sushi Zanmai has numerous locations in that neighborhood. All are equally good but the Bekkan location just happens to be our family favorite.
To reach the Bekkan location, walk from Ginza 4-chome down Harumi dori avenue towards Tsukiji on the right side of the avenue. If you pass the Kabuki theatre building on the left side, you are heading in the right direction. Eventually you will come upon an intersection where on left side, Hongaji Temple is located. After crossing this intersection, take the second side street to the right and Sushi Zanmai Bekkan is on the right side.
Unlike some sushi joints which quote prices that fluctuate with the going market price, Sushi Zanmai is clear about pricing. The price on the menu is what you pay, no surprises. And they have attractive sets from around 30 euros.
2018 Update. The Tsukiji Fish Market outer area still has a lot of fish shops. However, the actual inner market where the fish auctions take place has been relocated to Toyosu.
2024 Update. Please check opening times. They could be closed as early as 20:00. The best time to go is in the late afternoon between the lunch and dinner crowds.
2025 Update. Eiji Shibata has informed me that he may be transferred to the Sushi Zanmai Branch in Los Angeles.
