Eat:
On our way to the Sagrada Familia, we came across this cafe of Enrique Tomas which is known for their Iberian Jamon (cured ham). According to their web site, they also have tasting options for sampling various kinds of jamon. In our case, to satisfy a bit of peckishness, we stopped at a Enrique Tomas cafe en route to the Sagrada Familia for some simple jamon slices in bread with coffee. They have establishments all over the city, but I liked this one in particular. Despite its proximity to a crowded tourist attraction, it was not overrun by tourists. It offered a clean chic interior to quietly savor the jamon.
Enrique Tomas Sagrada Familia: Carrer de la Marina 261.
Chinese dumplings in Barcelona? This might seem like an odd listing for Barcelona. My reasons for including this are based on my obsession with fresh xiao long bao dumplings. Sub-standard frozen mass-manufactured versions can be had in the freezer section of any specialized Asian store. However, the truly fresh version, handmade on premise, are a rarity in Europe. So imagine my surprise when I came across Lady Dumpling in one of the narrow streets in the Gothic district. And Lady Dumpling herself was there, making fresh xiao long bao! See also my article on Din Tai Fung in my Tokyo page for a longer article on this dumpling. If you are in the Ramblas area, do by all means go in and treat yourself to some fresh steamed dumplings.
Lady Dumpling Ramblas: Carrer del Bonsucces 10, Ciutat Vella
Located within the labyrinth of the small narrow streets of the Gothic district, Los Caracoles (the snails) is an establishment with a long history. Personally, I found it comforting that I could always return there for a lovely meal every time I visited Barcelona. The first time, at age six, I remember enjoying paella for the very first time with my parents. Then at age thirty, when I was dining alone at the bar, I got greedy and after a starter of Pimientos de Padron, I had Zarzuela Los Caracoles as a main dish and a second main dish of Buttifara (Catalan sausage) with mushrooms before finishing off with a dessert of Crema Catalana. The waiters and cooks were dumbfounded by my appetite. At the end of the meal, the owner came out, slapped me on my back and declared 'You eat too much!' before insisting that I have a cava on the house. In my fifties, I went back with my husband and we shared the Zarzuela (fish casserole in saffron sauce) with a side of vegetables. While, some might claim this place is touristic, I still recommend it for the food and amazing complicated and quaint interior space. Some rooms are accessed by walking through a section of the kitchen.
Los Caracoles: Carrer dels Escudellers 14 Ciutat Vella
This place was recommended by my colleague in Barcelona. As the name suggests, it is a place to which we will return if we are back in Barcelona. And it is a must for fish and meat lovers...maybe especially fish. They are located in the Eixample area of Barcelona which I also recommend to first-time visitors so that they experience something other than the crowded touristic Ramblas area. We ordered 3 dishes which were all surprisingly large servings; Pimientos de Padron, fried octopus and Catalan sausage with fries. I think the best way to dine there is to go with a larger group so that you can order more dishes to share.
Note: When I was adding this listing, I found out that their website is not functional. So I added their Facebook link instead. Judging from what is posted on Facebook, the restaurant is still there and thriving.
O'Retorno: Calbet Electrodomèstics, Urgell, 168, Eixample
Sagardi Argenteria - Basque delights
In 2022, we had the pleasure of dining here with my then boss and her husband. And thanks to them, we had a taste of Basque cuisine. I'm not sure if you can actually make reservations. However, it is worth trying because the place is packed. If the weather is nice, there are tables on the plaza outside. Only beware, there will be smokers. Inside is smoke free, however tables are small and you end up precariously perched on bar stools.
While the seating might not be so comfortable, that is quickly forgotten when you see the incredible display of Pinchos on the bar. These are bite-sized creations held together with color-coded toothpicks. You are free to help yourself to whatever Pincho that attracts you. Just save the toothpicks because the color coding is linked to the per-item price and they will tally up the toothpicks in the end for your bill.
As if the Pinchos were not enough, this is a carnivore's Walhalla with superb cuts of dry-aged beef. And if you are able to drink alcohol (Lucky you! I cannot due to the lack the necessary enzymes) try ordering their cider. This is served in a spectacular theatrical manner of pouring the cider from more than a meter above the glass. As I learned from my friends, this is not just for show. It is actually functional. The pouring technique will aerate the cider and reduce the bitterness.
Note: There are several Sagardi's in Barcelona. The one we enjoyed is Sagardi Argenteria, C. de Argenteria 62. Be sure to go there with a large appetite.
In 2022, we had the pleasure of dining here with my then boss and her husband. And thanks to them, we had a taste of Basque cuisine. I'm not sure if you can actually make reservations. However, it is worth trying because the place is packed. If the weather is nice, there are tables on the plaza outside. Only beware, there will be smokers. Inside is smoke free, however tables are small and you end up precariously perched on bar stools.
While the seating might not be so comfortable, that is quickly forgotten when you see the incredible display of Pinchos on the bar. These are bite-sized creations held together with color-coded toothpicks. You are free to help yourself to whatever Pincho that attracts you. Just save the toothpicks because the color coding is linked to the per-item price and they will tally up the toothpicks in the end for your bill.
As if the Pinchos were not enough, this is a carnivore's Walhalla with superb cuts of dry-aged beef. And if you are able to drink alcohol (Lucky you! I cannot due to the lack the necessary enzymes) try ordering their cider. This is served in a spectacular theatrical manner of pouring the cider from more than a meter above the glass. As I learned from my friends, this is not just for show. It is actually functional. The pouring technique will aerate the cider and reduce the bitterness.
Note: There are several Sagardi's in Barcelona. The one we enjoyed is Sagardi Argenteria, C. de Argenteria 62. Be sure to go there with a large appetite.
See:
Like I have noted at the top of the page, do go to all the touristic spots, especially to see the works of Gaudi if you are in Barcelona for the first time. However, I will not reiterate all the information that is out there. Instead, I have noted down some oddities.I wouldn't go there for a good meal per se, but the cafeteria of Barcelona's foremost department store El Corte Ingles on Plaza Catalunya is a nice place to sit down with a coffee and to enjoy the fantastic views of the city. From our vantage point, the last time we were there, we could even see the hilltop silhouette of the church at Tibidabo.
Furthermore, this may be my thing as a foody, but I just love exploring the food section of department stores whenever I am travelling. In the case of El Corte Ingles, I was amazed by the varieties of tomatoes and gazpacho soups they had.
Platja de la Mar Bella for skinny dipping
Walk down the Ramblas until you hit the beach of Barceloneta, take a right and head north and keep on hiking up the beach until suddenly you see most of the sun bathers are sans clothes. Clothing is optional here and I found this more relaxed than the crowded beach right in front of Barcelona. I was travelling solo when I trekked down to this beach and was pleasantly surprised by a hassle-free moment in the sun. A few men politely approached me with the excuse that they wanted to practice their English, however they quickly retreated and left me alone and in peace when I indicated no interest. This beach will also be convenient if you have forgotten to pack any swimwear or if you want to cultivate a perfect tan. Due to the nudity and for the sake of privacy, I didn't take any photos of this area.
The craggy peaks of Montserrat and the abbey of Santa Maria de Montserrat is just a short train ride away from Barcelona. With the abbey as a starting point, there are lovely well maintained hiking trails to explore the area. If you are fit and love the outdoors, this could be a good alternative to walking around in the city. Luckily, I had a pair of sneakers that allowed me to walk up to the highest point, San Jeroni. Comfortable walking shoes are a must. Make sure you also pack water and a few snacks to sustain you along the way. The following web page 'Bonjour Becky', which I found by chance, happens to have detailed information and great practical tips for visiting Montserrat.
Sleep:
We stayed at the 4* Hotel H10 Urquinaona Plaza. I was torn between a place with a sea view and this one. This one won because of its central location just off the Plaza Catalunya. We had the double room plaza with an amazingly high ceiling, spacious bathroom and double doors opening out to the trees of the plaza. The hotel had a tranquil courtyard downstairs and a rooftop bar area with a small dipping pool for cooling off on hot days.
